Rosh Hodesh
The New Moon
Rosh Hodesh is the first day of each new month. It is considered a minor holiday for women as a reward for their historical righteousness in not contributing ornaments and jewelry to make the Golden Calf. In the Hebrew Bible, the Golden Calf was an idol constructed by certain impatient Israelites who lost faith in Moses when he ascended Mount Sinai, where he eventually received the Ten Commandments after the passage of forty days. It is a custom for women to wear special clothes and to refrain from some everyday chores. Ideally, a special meal is served in honor of Rosh Hodesh.

Sukkot
The Festival of Booths

Shemini Atzeret
The Festival of Assembly

Simhat Torah
The Festival of the Torah

On the heels of the solemn Yom Kippur, there follow Sukkot, Shemini Atzeret, and Simhat Torah, a joyous ­eight-­day trio of holidays that begin on the 15th of Tishrei and represent one of the purest and happiest celebrations in the Jewish calendar. This period is commonly referred to in Jewish prayer and literature as zeman simchateinu, “the season of our rejoicing.”
Lulav and etrog (palm frond and citron) for the holiday of Sukkot (The Festival of Booths)

The sukkah is where everything takes place during this festival: eating, singing, learning, and sometimes even sleeping. It is essentially an outdoor structure with a roof made of natural plant materials (such as bamboo or tree branches), symbolizing the ­tentlike dwellings that protected the Jews during their ­forty-­year passage in the desert following their exodus from Egypt. Each night before starting the evening meal, Jews prepare themselves to connect to that particular spiritual channel created by their seven forefathers—Abraham, Isaac, Jacob, Moses, Aaron, Joseph, and David, collectively known as the ushpizin—welcoming one of them as an honorary sukkah guest.

Jews also celebrate Sukkot with the daily ritual of waving the lulav and etrog, which is done during the morning Hallel prayer to express praise to G-d. The lulav is a palm frond that is flanked by hadasim (myrtle leaves) and aravot (willows). The etrog is a citron, which is a bumpy and deeply aromatic citrus fruit.

The ­lulav-­waving ritual of Aleppian Jews is complex and is based on the Kabbalah. The lulav holder begins by waving it southward to and from the chest three times. He then turns, repeating this motion while facing north, then east (with a slight variation), and then west, all the while slowly chanting the designated section of the Hallel prayer in a low tone. Following the waving ceremony, hoshannot (songs of praise) are recited. During this ceremony the Torah is brought out and congregants encircle it, holding lulav and etrog.

The last day of Sukkot is known as Hoshanna Rabba. The Kabbalah provides that it is on this day that G-d dispatches the decrees He sealed on Yom Kippur (The Day of Atonement). In the morning of Hoshanna Rabba there is a great ceremony of lulav waving, circling the prayer room seven times and beating the aravot willow branches on the floor. The falling leaves from the willow branch symbolize the desire for beneficial rain. Men stay up all night studying the Torah in order to ensure a good verdict for the coming year.

At the close of Sukkot, Aleppian Jews gather their etrogs to make tart, fragrant helou etrog (Citron Preserves, page 297), which is given to pregnant women to wish them an easy birth and healthy baby. Traditionally, this preserve also makes an appearance on the tree festival Tu b’Shvat (the new year festival for trees). Aleppian Jews also have a custom of saving their lulavs to ward off bad dreams. Following the Jewish custom of using one precept to fulfill another, the lulav is kept in the home until the eve of Passover, when it is used as kindling during the ceremonial burning of the hametz (leavened food).

The last day of Sukkot is joined with and immediately followed by the holidays of Shemini Atzeret and Simhat Torah. Shemini Atzeret celebrates the Jewish people’s relationship with G-d. A key aspect of this day is the fervent request for rain, whereby the congregation pleads with G-d to grant enough to ensure a bounty of crops for the coming year.

Simhat Torah commemorates the transition between the final weekly Torah reading in the Book of Deuteronomy and the first reading in the Book of Genesis. For children, it is one of the most anticipated dates in the Jewish calendar. The congregation sings and dances with its Torah scrolls. Bags of candy containing simsemiyeh (Sesame Candy, page 305) and labas (­Candy-­Coated Almonds, page 303) are given to all the children at the close of the morning services. Every man in the congregation is encouraged to receive the honor of an aliyah, which is an invitation for a member or guest of a congregation to read from a portion of the designated Torah reading. There is also the custom of gathering the young boys of the congregation under one prayer shawl (tallit) for a collective aliyah.

There are no special dishes for this holiday. A typical holiday lunch is prepared and enjoyed by the adults, but kids must be pried from their lollipops, chocolate bars, and other confections in order to eat a proper meal—that is, if they haven’t yet succumbed to the obligatory Simhat Torah tummy ache.

Sample Menu

Sukkot Dinner

B

Khubz Simsom— Sesame Flatbread, page 21

Fu¯l Medammas— Warm Fava Beans, page 48

Salatit Batata— Lemony Allspice- Cumin Potato Salad, page 37

Riz b’Spanekh— Rice with Spinach, page 120

Farrju Mashwi— Grilled Chicken, page 196

Kibbeh b’Garaz— Sweet Cherry–Stuffed Beef Slices, page 166

Yebra— Grape Leaves Stuffed with Ground Meat and Rice, with Apricot- Tamarind Sauce, page 150

Baklawa— Pistachio Filla Wedges in Rose Water Syrup, page 251

Kra’bij— Marshmallow- Dipped Nut- Stuffed Pastry, page 269

Platter of fruit—grapes, fresh figs, assorted berries, fresh plums, apricots, and sliced melons

Selection of pastries





Salatit Batata

Lemony ­Allspice
Cumin Potato Salad

The Syrian version of potato salad is a welcome departure from the lumpy, creamy stuff sold in American delis. Consider this recipe for your next barbecue; the lemon and allspice flavors work particularly well with grilled meats. There is really no mystery to this dish. Once the potatoes are cooked, you simply combine with the seasonings, and add scallions for crunch, if you wish. While measurements are provided, you can adjust this dish to your taste. Experiment as you please. If you feel that the potatoes need a kick of heat, add Aleppo pepper. If the soft texture reminds you of ­ hard-boiled eggs, crumble some egg over the top.

6 medium potatoes (about 3 pounds)
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
3/4 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice (about 4 lemons) 		1 teaspoon ground allspice
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon ground white pepper
1 teaspoon kosher salt 		4 scallions, chopped (optional)
2 ­hard-­boiled eggs, quartered and chopped (optional)
Fresh ­flat-­leaf parsley for garnish

  1. Boil the potatoes in a large pot of salted water over ­medium-­high heat, uncovered, for 20 minutes, or until tender. Drain, peel the potatoes, and cut them into small chunks while still warm. Put the potatoes in a medium mixing bowl.
  2. While the potatoes are still warm, add the olive oil and lemon juice to the mixing bowl. Season the potatoes with the allspice, cumin, white pepper, and salt. Add the scallions, if desired. Toss the potatoes gently. Top with the eggs, if desired, and garnish with parsley. Serve at room temperature.
Yield: 6 to 8 servings